MDF (the full title is medium-density fiberboard) is a kind of manufactured wood that is made up of composite wood parts and fibers that are kept together by wax or resin adhesive. The composite piece of wood is then wrapped in a thin decorative veneer sheet. MDF is denser than plywood and is widely used in the furniture industry. Plywood is not to be associated with this material.
The true advantage of MDF is that it is one of the most cost-effective fabrics for cabinet building. Its durability was previously questioned, especially when used in a humid bathroom environment. However, when properly done, MDF may be applied in the bathroom with little, if any, issues. But here’s the catch: due to variations in the fiber sizes and properties of the several wood types used to produce MDF, it’s difficult to say how “well completed” an actual board is.
MDF is a typical material used in lower-cost vanity cabinets, and while it is generally good, it is not the perfect option for your bathroom. Cabinets made of MDF can be held in the kitchen and other dry areas.
How durable MDF is in humid conditions?
When deciding whether to apply MDF or sturdy hardwood in the shower, humidity is a big factor. Bathroom cabinets, as per the NAHB, will last a lifetime if maintained properly.
MDF cabinets do not expand and compress as frequently as real wood cabinets, however, if water penetrates the MDF surface, it may cause harm. This will trigger a significant increase in the size of your vanity. MDF should be applied in the bathroom without issue if it is ventilated properly and the material is properly sealed. Seal the backs and sides of MDF cabinets with an oil-based sealer and several coats of poly sealer as an extra measure. If you purchase an MDF vanity, this is a suggested measure to take to avoid warping and shrinking.
Since natural wood is porous, it can trap water molecules in the climate. This is the reason why vanities compress over time. MDF can be a greater material in the bathroom because of its special finish, as long as it is finished well. If at all possible, avoid buying inexpensive, poorly-made MDF vanities, as they can cause you problems in the future.
Strong hardwood (manufactured wood) is engineered to survive humidity-related expansion and contraction without cracking or bending, close to MDF. Strong hardwood, on the other hand, does not swell when subjected to water since it is too finely and regularly granulated – even though it isn’t completely covered. The wood is made to survive in humid conditions. The disadvantage is that this substance does not perform well in incredibly dry environments; in other words, it is ideal for bathroom vanities but not for kitchens or other, drier areas.
Major materials to water-seal MDF surfaces
PVA glue
Tiny coats of PVA (white or carpenter’s) adhesive may be used to seal MDF surfaces. To get a thin sealing coating on your MDF, most PVA-based carpentry glues need to be diluted with water (this can lead to swollen MDF). PVA glues intended for paper and bookbinding that are thin and acid neutral perform well when applied using a roller, spreader, or spray bottle designed for thinner glues. Paint added over solvent-based primers can stay slightly “rubbery” underneath paint coatings and will not endure wear as well as paint sprayed over PVA primers.
Paint primer
MDF primers can be solvent-based rather than water-based, compared to plastic, lacquer or enamel. Stain-covering primers (Zisser produces the suitable product in a spray can) have a thicker body and can be used on smooth and detailed surfaces as well as edges. These heavy-bodied primers may be too dense for miniatures/dollhouses or projects with fine cut detailing (1/4 scale siding, for example), and may loosen detail.
Spray-on lacquer
Spray lacquer, either clear or colored, may be applied as a primer for MDF with decent performance. Using one that is built for exterior use. Some lacquers provide extremely smooth surfaces on which cheap artisan paints would not stick. If you’re going to apply these liquid acrylics to paint your miniatures, make sure you try them over the lacquer primer first to make sure they stick properly. When dealing with lacquer primers, make sure to obey the directions carefully. Operate in a well-ventilated environment, away from any heat sources.
Enamel primer
Enamel primers perform well for coating MDF surfaces as long as thin coats are added and layers are not built up that would run or leak as the enamel dries. Choose a primer color that will blend in with the final topcoat, and leave the primer coating as small as possible. Thick ‘one layer’ enamel sprays should be avoided because they can cause you to skip crisp detail outlines.
How to waterproof MDF with moisture-resistant paint?
Only moisture-resistant paint can render the MDF board resistant to moisture since this form of paint provides a more durable waterproof coating on the MDF:
- The paint roller should be put into the roller cover. To have improved paint coverage on the MDF surface, use a 3/8-inch roller cover. In the roller tray, position the roller tray liner;
- Fill the roller tray with a latex-based primer. Using the paint roller, apply the primer to the MDF. Use a paintbrush to get into some places that the paint roller couldn’t hit. Leave it for 6 hours for the primer to dry;
- To clear the primer from the roller, covers, and any other accessories you used, clean them with spray. Place the cover on the roller and a fresh sheet of liner onto the roller tray to prepare the utensils for painting again;
- Apply the moisture-resistant paint to the MDF. Paint the MDF’s edges with a paintbrush. Applying the roller, paint the remainder of the MDF. Allow four hours for this coat of paint to cure before adding another. Leave it at least for 3 days for the final coat of paint to cure. Your MDF is moisture-resistant and can be applied in high-moisture environments.
How to waterproof MDF with PVA glue and acrylic paints?
If you are on a tight budget, you may not have large amounts of money to drop on super-special artist’s sealant materials, etc. That is when you may use PVA glue or any cheap waterproof glue from the nearest hardware store. It may seal and make MDF surfaces watertight.
You can get water-resistant PVA glue (intended for wood) for a reasonable price on Amazon. Consider getting GAC100 by Golden. It won’t break the bank, and it’ll be more reliable than crafter’s glue for oil. However, most PVA products are not acid-free.
Alternatively, 2 or 3 coats with regular acrylic color or medium would suffice. Gesso, for example, creates a good chalky base, and the first coats effectively seal against SID leaching. A typical acrylic paint (applied in three thin coats) will provide a good non-absorbent field for oil painting.
You can seal all sides and the edges – the acrylic sealer strengthens MDF and card corners in particular, and doing the back when the front is already damp can help smooth out the bent of a thinner card. Reinforced MDF (1mm thick) is perfect for tiny paintings, particularly if you’re doing a lot of them, but if the corners aren’t sealed, they’ll fray.
Two thin coats of a cheap yet well-known brand acrylic yellow ochre can function well and be both inexpensive and lasting.
How can you dry MDF out?
MDF swells and distorts as it gets hot. If the MDF hasn’t imploded or separated, the swells may be sanded off.
Is MDF waterproof as well? It’s worth mentioning that, regardless of the process, MDF is moisture-resistant, not waterproof, and is also vulnerable to swelling and warping when exposed to the elements.
To restore MDF surfaces that have been weakened by water or steam, we must first hack away the puffed-up affected wood fibers. After that, you should sand it even. Then, we apply a solvent-based primer, such as BIN shellac primer, which penetrates, seals, and dries quickly. After sanding, the field is primed once more.
How can you fix MDF furniture that has been damaged? To begin, you’ll need to use wood putty to fill the surface cracks. To scatter the putty in the gap, apply a putty knife. After that, you’ll let it dry before sanding it smooth with 120-grit sandpaper. After that, use an unnecessary toothbrush to brush away the dust and lose stuff.
